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Author Archive for Ethan

A Southern Truck Stop

I am the truck driver who drives through the night.  I am the soldier who marches in a foreign land. Heading South from Tuscaloosa, Alabama we pulled off the highway at a truck stop just over the border into Mississippi. With an old toothbrush and some biodiesel, I scrubbed the fuel filters, brushing out the particles of food from the metal screen. Alan spun off the final filter and replaced it with a fresh one. Nando grabbed the long handled squeegee/brush and wiped the gray highway dust from the windows. Jenny slept inside the bus, having just finished her shift behind the wheel.

“Whatcha got goin’ here?” a truck driver asked Fernando. The name “Joey” was stitched into the breast of his faded blue stripped shirt.

“We’re a sustainability education non-profit touring the country on this bus running on vegetable oil,” Nando answered pointing toward the bus with the dripping brush.

“You’re really running on vegetable oil?”

“Yeah, we use waste cooking oil from restaurants.”

“I want to buy y’all some dinner. They make a mean burger and fries here. The name’s Joey.”

“Fernando.” The two shook hands.

After waking Jenny for dinner and washing up we found Joey slowly carving away at his rib eye and picking at fries.

“Order what y’all like. The burgers and fries are good,” he repeated.

Yielding to local wisdom, we had Joey order four cheeseburgers with fries. We asked him about his route and his home over sodas. The waitress soon brought our dinner. Sinking my teeth into the burger I remembered I am an omnivore and how much I miss eating meat. Joey shared with Nando and Alan his experiences as a truck driver.

“Well I’m from ‘round the Gulf, least my folks are but I been haulin’ all over the country. My folks lost their home in the flood, but my wife and my step son live up north ‘round by here. My step son’s goin’ through a tough time. There ain’t much for him to do but get in trouble, and I’m tryin’ to help my folks out but they got me haulin’ so many miles I can’t be around as much as I’d like.”

“I appreciate what y’all are doing with global warming and all. We need to get off oil.” He said that he’d sure like to see some of those green jobs come to Mississippi.

His family lived in the Gulfport region and Katrina took their home. His parents were older and losing health and he worried for their well-being in a post-Katrina gulf region. After exchanging a few stories, Joey put down his fork and knife,

“You know, you guys are all right”, Joey stated. “What are your plans for Thanksgiving dinner? We aren’t terribly rich or anything, but my wife does cook a mean turkey and we’d love to have you all over.”

Before we could answer Joey’s generous and considerate invitation a lone uniformed soldier sat at the table next to us. The young man looked curiously at the odd assemblage of people at our table.

“Would you like to join us?” Jenny asked.“Sure,” he replied.

There were two conversations going at once. Alan and Nando spoke with Joey. The other conversation was between Jenny, Jake and me. Jake asked what we are up to and we told the BioTour story.

“Where ya headin’?” I asked.

“I’m driving back home to Alabama in a few days. I am driving my mom’s gas guzzler SUV, 93 octane. Gas is damn expensive!”

“Where have you served?”

“Most recently I was in Guam. I’m on leave right now. Don’t know where I am heading next. Maybe back to Iraq. I don’t know. What about you?”

“We’re heading to New Orleans from Tuscaloosa.”

“I served in New Orleans too, during Katrina. It was crazy.” He began telling the story in an excited mechanical fashion with the authoritative manner that I’d seen before when listening to soldiers tell their stories. “I was one of those guys on the bridge telling everyone to turn back. I’m sure y’all heard about it on TV.”

“What bridge was that?”

“It was a bridge New Orleans residents were trying to cross so they could get back into the city to search for their missing relatives. We were there to prevent them from going back. You know, I understand why they wanted to get over that bridge. I do. It’s family and they’re missing and possibly dead. But, if I let them go back in then there are more people missing and that makes our job harder. So I am on the bridge saying,” his tone became stern as if giving military orders, “‘I am here to keep you alive. I cannot let you cross this bridge.’” He paused for a moment. “New Orleans has gotten a lot better since I was there. People don’t often see the improvements. But, it’s still got some ways to go.”

He broke away from his story to take a sip from his root beer.

“What made you decide to join the military?” I asked.

“I was in ROTC when September 11th happened. Then one day, someone put a pipe bomb in school. Right then I enlisted.”“The guy who planted the pipe bomb, his mother was a Muslim,” he said with matter of fact tone, as if to imply, ‘Not all Muslim’s are terrorists, but…’

“I have done some reconnaissance missions for a few weeks at a time in Iraq. I don’t know if I’ll be ordered back or not.”

The conversation shifted to lighter topics. We all sat and talked life. During a pause in the conversation Jake put down his burger and said,

“You know, thirty-five years ago you wouldn’t have seen this: a soldier, a truck driver, and a bunch of environmentalists all sitting down together for dinner at a truck stop in Mississippi.”

‘It’s even a rare scene today,’ I thought to myself. I then looked to the table next to ours. There, a large black man, also a truck driver, sat alone. He kept his eyes away from our table and his demeanor sent a message of ‘I’m fine alone.’ Nando asked if he’d like to sit with us. He kindly refused. I got the feeling that some boundaries still remain strong in the South.


“Hey Jenny, you wanna ride…for three months?”

I downed a few highly caffeinated “energy drinks”, took the wheel from Alan and continued north from Iowa to Minneapolis. Reaching downtown early in the a.m., I navigated the streets, looking for a good place to park the bus. I couldn’t tell you the characteristics of the “good parking spot” I was searching for, but I ended up setting the bus between a few pubs and a Borders book store, likely attracted by the still swarming people late on a Monday night. The caffeine still pumping through my veins, I sat up for a bit, read some Steinbeck and watched the people pass by. It was an interesting mix of night dwellers. The intoxicated stumbled down the sidewalks speaking loudly to friends. A few tired souls dragged home from the late shift, their eyes never wandering from the next step ahead. They crossed by others working the night shift who scurried past with a clear destination. Pimped out Hummers and Escalades circled the block with the music blaring, the bass rattling the change in the cup holder next to me.

The Grease BarronI woke the next morning to tapping on the window.

“You need any grease?” Dave asked.

“Nah, I think we are good. We are almost full. Why do you ask?”

“Well, I got a lot of clean filtered grease from our restaurant here,” he replied as he pointed to the sign that read Gluek’s Bar and Restaurant.

“I guess we could take a few more gallons.”

With a bucket of clean grease hanging in each hand, Alan asked,

Dave from Gluek’s, Good Sustainable Food“How long have you been in business?”

“Since 1935. My great grandfather opened the brewery and restaurant just after prohibition ended. It’s been a family business ever since.”

Dave Was in the process of installing a vegetable oil kit in his car, and in the mean time was glad to part with some of his growing grease supply. After filling up, Dave invited us in for lunch.

Despite my moral qualms with the cruel and highly polluting meat industry, my body keeps telling me I’m an omnivore. So I pledged to the Earth, with Alan as my witness, that I would only pay for organic free roaming meat. I inquired about where the meat came from, expecting to get the usual answer of ‘I don’t know’, or from some unknown distributor.

“Nearly all of our meat is organic. The chickens are from a local Amish farm, one hundred percent grass-fed and free roaming. The beef’s organic too, from a local free range rancher.”

“Bleu cheeseburger with mushrooms please.”

***

After a series of stops at auto parts stores (our home on wheels is continually a work in progress), we were off to the airport to pick up our newest crew member and photographer, Jenny. We’d found Jenny through an internet ad and we were praying that the vibe we got from her Myspace page, email communications, and a brief phone interview was accurate.

***

“Twelve feet, six inches,” I read out loud the low clearance sign that provided no prior warning on this one-way airport road.

“Pull over and I’ll grab the tape measure,” Alan said

“Eleven feet, seven inches,” I called up to Alan.

After giving the security guard the thumbs up, we followed him as he led us to Jenny and out of the airport.

***

We weaved through a maze of residential streets to find one of Minnesota’s famous “ten thousand lakes”. After a swim, Alan and I and Jenny sat down on grass by the water’s edge, as powerful wind gusts flew off the lake swishing in the trees above. We sat and talked about Burning Man (Jenny had been this year too). We returned to the bus and continued the conversation about traveling and life over some hookah—first impression: we had chosen well.


Alan, you owe me one.

Our journey ended so suddenly. From one final adventure on the Pacific Coast of Washington state, we raced down to San Francisco so Alan wouldn’t miss his flight. Alan and Brian would soon be home, back in Massachusetts and it would be just me, the bus, and a long to-do list to prepare BioTour for the fall tour.

My preconceived images of California—hot sun, palm trees lining the beaches, and everyone roller-blading around did not fit northern California; but, the reality did not disappoint. “Good Journey. For each destination is but a doorway to the next.”After crossing the most famous icon of San Francisco, Brian and I pulled off the highway into Golden Gate Park before exiting into Sausalito. Brian put on a winter hat on the chilly morning and we stepped of the bus and stood, gazing at clouds creeping over the steep hillsides, cascading down the valleys across the Golden Gate Bridge toward the Bay. Brian watched quietly. I could sense he was reflecting on the long journey that would come to an end that night when he would board a plane back to Boston.

***

Bountiful hills.We found my friend Peggy and drove the big bus through the narrow winding roads of Sausalito—an upscale community filled with tourists and home to wealthy San Franciscans. The hillsides were explosions of life—green vines hung from various trees of green and red, then crawled along walkways and up stonewalls. Exotic plants adorned pathways as if nature chose Peggy’s new front garden.Sausalito for some of its greatest art. Colorful flowers blossomed and fell to cover the stone walkways. I took a deep breath to take some of it with me. Driving the bus to Peggy’s new place in Tiburon, we found more of the same, lush gardens, fruit trees, and water fountains. It made me wonder if the California climate creates this or if we are just too busy or too lazy in Massachusetts to goad nature into producing such things.

Peggy bought Brian a farewell shot of tequila for the long flight and he was gone. I spent the next few days working from my computer at Sausalito cafes before heading south to Mountain View to visit Dustin at Google Headquarters.

***

Google Headquarters - Mountain View, CAGoogle is a playground for gamers, geeks, programmers and bus adventurers who stop by for a snack and shower. I dug into the food from the buffet line as Dustin grabbed a couple of beers, opened them and passed one to me.

“Google has this strange idea that creating a fun, comfortable, and exciting environment for its workers will increase general happiness and productivity…” Dustin said ridiculing the fact that this is an anomaly in an economy that typically squeezes every dime out of workers.

Free beer and wine on Friday, concerts a few nights a month, snacks and smoothies, Naked Juice, cashews and food bars in each building, and bikes for people to cruise around campus were just some of the perks. But Google doesn’t stop there, they provide massage chairs when you get cramped from typing at a computer for too long, art and plant life surround, they even have a replica of a T-Rex skeleton and a plastic ball pit (like the ones you find at Chucky Cheese). At Google, you don’t walk the wide and tall Dustin’s desk job.hallways of some swanky ostentatious fortress built by people who feel the need to demonstrate the magnificence of their multi-million dollar corporation. You instead walk the rolling hills that surround and the lively decorated cubicles or the cactus lined walkways, or Segway the game-filled halls of a playground-workplace constructed by two computer geeks that developed a billion dollar company.

***

Looking down on clouds.I trailed Dustin’s truck heading to Santa Cruz and nestled the bus in front of his garage apartment, my home for the next month. Dustin grabbed a bottle of wine, two glasses and we rushed to Moon Rocks to catch sunset. After a short climb up the smooth foot-worn sandstone, we stood looking down on the clouds. As long as the fire flickers.Fog rolled over the sparkling ocean like a white blanket. I was reminded of Table Mountain in South Africa, where both Dustin and I had climbed and seen the famous “tablecloth” of clouds a few years before. We toasted to life, drank our wine and then found a campfire and conversation with new friends.

***

I spent long hours the next month behind a computer, inside the engine of the bus and building the interior of our motor home. Santa Cruz had so many wonders to explore, but I was busy and focused on getting work done, knowing it’ll be easier for all when we are on road again in just over a month.

Dustin’s place should have had a revolving door for the number of guests and “couchsurfers” that passed through. Dustin, on his own initiative, set up the BioTour Intern Program. He would lend his home to nearly anyone who asked, and in return they became a BioTour intern. At least once a week I would pick up my phone and have a conversation something like this:

“What’s up Dustin?”

“I got you another BioTour intern who will arrive later today to help you wash the bus. He’ll be staying at my place for a few days while I’m up here at Google.”

“When you coming back?”

“I don’t know.”

“Thanks, see ya then.”

There was a steady stream of travelers that would share with me Dustin’s garage, shower, sink and internet, and tales of travel.

***

I initially thought I couldn’t afford to surf this summer, but I felt the waves and water in Santa Cruz calling me, despite never touching a surfboard in my life. The first tour was one of investment, leaving me with little cash and even less room on my credit cards. It normally costs hundreds of dollars for a board and hundreds more for a new wetsuit. Experiencing a union with the curling and crashing forces of nature seem beyond my reach. But within 20 minutes of arriving in Santa Cruz the universe provided—Dustin and I stumbled upon a yard sale that was about to close up, and the vendor cut me a break and sold me a beginner’s long board and a wetsuit that barely stretched over my body for a total of $85.

Pleasure Point. At peace on the water.For more than three weeks the board taunted me, sitting in corner of Dustin’s apartment as I ground down the to-do list and dealt with the website crashing. There was too much to do and too little time. With two weeks left before Burning Man and then the start of the Fall 2007 Tour, I had to make time. I just said, ‘Yes,’ grabbed my surfboard, drove the bus to Pleasure Point just before dawn, just in time to watch the ocean light up as the sun rose behind me. With the YouTube surf lesson from professional surfers Phil MacDonald and Trent Munro fresh in my mind, I paddled out. There were only a few surfers on the water and the waves were few and far between. I caught two waves, pushing my chest up but remaining laying down, riding the waves down until they died out. The last two I tried to stand, wobbling onto my feet for a brief moment in time for the wave to fizzle out and I sank into the water. I remember Alan’s words, “Surfers paddle. They paddle and paddle and catch a few waves in between.”

I was stubbornly addicted to surfing even though the waves were mere ripples in most surf spots in Santa Cruz in August. My second surfing attempt occurred at the famous Steamers Lane. Even when it’s flat everywhere else, occasional sets still roll into Steamers Lane. This point break is supposedly notorious for its localism and I was told that I would get a lot of flak from experienced surfers who would have no tolerance for a guy with a foam beginners board, a half wetsuit that didn’t fit, who got in their way as he fell off wave after wave. But I went anyway, and out on the water nobody spoke a word to me.

I walked down the wooden stairs, stepped onto the rocks and jumped into the water on my board. I could see tourists in front of the light house looking over the cliff at the surfers who paddled just along side that sheer cliff. Only a few feet from rocks, a surfer would pop up and catch a ten foot wave, surfing away Steamers Lane. A good place to learn to surf…from the rocks and toward me as I waited for the smaller waves they would let pass. The waves of Steamers Lane were much bigger had enough force to propel me and my foam board to shore, making it much easier to catch waves. Wiping out, flipping over, and eventually standing briefly, I learned a lot, and I’m itching to surf again when we reach the east coast.

***

The rest of the summer before Burning Man was mostly work with some excursions and adventures in between. I took a trip up to Belden in northern California, shuttling people for a pre-Burning Man event. Dustin thankfully dragged me out from underneath the bus to climb Tree Nine, a redwood in the tall dark forests of UCSC. I took breaks to bike Santa Cruz, Natural Bridges being one the best places for sunset.

***

One adventure of note was the pot grower’s convention in San Francisco. A fellow vegetable oil bus driver and friend had flown to San Francisco with most of the staff of a hydroponics store that he owned and managed. Will invited Dustin and me to an event being held by one of his company’s product suppliers. I was given all information second hand, something about a big party by some fertilizer company, free food and drinks and entertainment. Of course I would go. Money was tight, Will was in town, and my friend Matt had just turned twenty-one.

Perhaps it was because I worked on a hydroponic tomato farm when I was young that I missed something everyone else well understood: the clientele for hydroponics retail stores are ninety percent marijuana growers. Even a half hour into the party, I still didn’t get it. I was the child in the room who didn’t understand what the adults were talking about. As I stood on the dance floor, I pieced things together—“hydro”, the clouds of smoke billowing from the lungs of onlookers, the hosts throwing money into the air as people scrambled to pick it up, the snake charmer show, the belly dancers that offered me a drag from the hookah in the tent with Persian pillows, and looking at Will’s friend Ustin, who smiled and nodded at me looking blazed. The light bulb went on… ‘These people are pot growers!’ I felt like such an idiot. My friends all laughed. “You didn’t know!” The night was…interesting to say the least. But it’s too long a story that will have to be told another day.


Pit Stop in Pukwana

Great PlainsWe were finally on our way to South Dakota and took shifts on the long ride. I fell asleep in the back bed and woke to some bumps in the road. Leaving the lakes and wide fields green with knee high corn of Minnesota, we crossed the Missouri River into South Dakota. The bridge over Missouri opened up like a gateway into South Dakota and the Great Plains. Hills of green and yellow grasses rolled and stretched out to eternity beneath an enormous silver sky, with only the silhouettes of ponies and a few trees on the horizon. It felt like flying—with the bus gears disengaged we coasted down hills in all that space, the wind whipping through open windows.

We made our way toward the Badlands and Pine Ridge Indian Reservation. Then, boom! Worried that we lost something I looked out the back hoping not to see a rolling metal barrel or anything careening down from the roof. Nothing. We pulled over to find we had blown another tire in the rear.

Farm roadsWe drove cautiously to the next truck stop, got directions to “Ron’s place”. Ron, we heard, had some schools buses and the rare sized tire we needed. We took the Pukwana exit and tried following Ron’s directions of a few lefts and rights with no street names. “Head east, then you’ll turn off north. Go north for 2.4 miles and turn south.” I overshot the 2.4 miles, assuming he would have mentioned if it was just a small dirt road cutting through farmland. I took the next left down a wider dirt road and found a farmer on his tractor who told us we went too far but we could drive down the tractor road to get to Ron’s.Tire Barn

Ron knows BusesAfter navigating between fields of wheat, we finally reached Ron’s and sifted through his forty or soused tires in his barn for a couple good ones. “Two of ‘em for $120.” Ron wanted to help with the headlights which had stopped working the night before. A slight man, wearing a racing cap with a ‘Budweiser’ logo on the side, Ron knew buses. He had a fleet of his own school buses parked in front of the garage.

While Ron switched the tires, Brian, Paasch and I took the bikes off the roof and headed down the road. We climbed some hay bails, scared some cows into a stampede while trying feed them grass, and failed to coax a bull to chase after us.

Ron had changed our tire, fixed our head lights and given us a spare for the roof. We cleaned up with the hose and chatted with a bit. Spare tires

“We race lawnmowers in Pukwana every other Saturday. It draws quite a crowd, more than the number of people that live in Pukwana,” he said laughing. “They get fifteen of those mowers on the dirt track going 45mph and that’s something to see. My brother races. This is one of his mowers, though it ain’t working right now.”

“How long has Pukwana been doing lawn mower races,” I asked.

“Only about three years, but it is getting really big.”

After filling our water vessels we said thanks and goodbye to Ron and his mother Cheryl, two delightful people that had made our day. They wished us good luck on our journey and we set off to reach the badlands by nightfall.




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