Archive for May, 2007

War Stories at The Harp

After a long and well-spent day, we walked up the street to a local Irish pub, The Harp. Harpo, the tavern operator/Irish history professor with a gray handle bar mustache, checked our IDs at the door, asking each of us for backup. It was ‘Over 40 Dance Night’ for the beginning of the evening and middle aged couples boogied out on the floor in corduroys and sweaters, one gentleman even rocked a pair of high socks and knickers.

We sat down at a table with Harpo, who introduced us to Loren, a drummer turned music producer, who was home from Seattle. Loren was built like a lumberjack, endowed with enterprising LA energy and good heart besides. We told him about BioTour. He was thrilled by what we were doing and bought us some pitchers of beer. Afterward, he gave a passionate retelling of his own story over a few pints: A drummer for hire who once was part of the corrupt music producing industry (think boy bands), Loren had broken free to start a conscientious alternative for musicians. His company, Protectomatic Music and Entertainment, empowers artists with ownership over their music and gives back to society by forming partnerships with non-profits. We in turn bought another round for a man fearlessly remolding the music industry.

***

A college rock band replaced the DJ for the over 40 dance night. Nodding to Red Hot Chili Pepper’s covers, I followed E and Burkie out onto the deck.

The two soldiers who Ethan had befriended at UMass happened to be at the Harp that night. I met Jon who, with wide eyes and a buzz cut, joined the Army at 18 looking for some direction. At 19 he was in Iraq. He told us about the boredom and the languor of waiting around in tents in the desert for weeks at a time.

“These private contractors are doing most of our work, the construction work, basically replacing us so we’ve got nothing to do,” said Jon.

“You and your buddies are sleeping in bunk beds and tents while Halliburton employees you protect are living in air conditioned hotels they built for themselves in the desert. And they’re getting’ paid, what? Like how many times a soldier’s salary? And with taxpayer’s money…it’s such bullshit…” Ethan started down the list of absurdities about this war and stopped just shaking his head.

Jon was knocked unconscious on three occasions while in the Middle East, and upon returning home suffered a stroke that temporarily paralyzed the left side of his body. Several civilian doctors have said that redeployment would likely kill him, but military doctors, who have not even met Jon in person, have cleared him to redeploy.
Nearly two years ago, Ethan encouraged Jon to speak at a UMass anti-war event. Jon told his story to a crowd of activists and press and the military backed off, striking a deal with him that allowed him to remain in country to finish his service. Recently the military has resumed their efforts to redeploy him to Iraq, despite the risks to his health.

“It’s tough. I don’t want my soldiers to think I am abandoning them, but this is my health. I would do anything for them, but if I go back I’ll probably end up dead, and it won’t be from a bullet or a bomb.”

Amid so much rhetoric about ‘supporting the troops’ Jon is one of the few people who sincerely works to do just that. Despite a military budget of over $400 billion and the additional hundreds of billions spent on the so-called “War on Terror, Jon has seen his brothers in arms return from combat and left broken, confused, and even impoverished, with no one to help them secure the education and benefits they were promised. One of Jon’s friends survives on five-pound bags of rice while he struggles to feed his children, and many others just don’t sleep at night. Jon took over the UMass Veterans and Service Members Association to support the soldiers as they return home, helping them get their GI Bill benefits when no one else will, teaching them how to balance a check book when no one else has, understanding their struggle to readjust when no once else can or cares to.

Although Jon questions the validity of the mission in Iraq, he would still support his fellow soldiers on the ground if his body could take it, but it cannot. Jon is working in Amherst to help the soldiers become functioning citizens rather than broken parts, but still the military is trying to send him back to be a body on the ground in a foreign land.

***

The back deck of the bar provided a respite from the college band, sweating and pumping out Jimi Hendrix covers. I met Hunter while he was working security, keeping underage kids from jumping over the rail, or guys from pissing off the deck. He had gathered himself after finishing a case race earlier in the day, and convinced Harpo that he was good to work. Hunter wore a black safari hat over round black-rimmed eye-glasses, and a thin black beard.He carried his tall frame with disarming nonchalance. A year ago he was stationed with the Marines between Fallujah and Tikrit.

Another friend of Ethan’s asked Hunter for a war story. He thought for a moment then launched into an adrenalized tale about the siege of Fallujah, gripping a cigarette with his lips. He punctuated his sentences by chopping the air with his hands and gazed ahead with wild intensity.

“We’re providin’ support for the siege, sittin’ there waitin’ and waitin’ in the trucks while it gets dark, and we’re hearin’ the mortars and IEDs goin’ off and we’re just waitin’ to move on to the next check point. We move up on Boston road…no! no, it was the Michigan road, and we hear “Boom!” behind us, an’ there’s a smoking crater where we were just standin’ two minutes ago.

“We’re all on edge, sittin’ in the truck and grittin’ our teeth, ya know. So we get to the next check point on the edge of the city. I’m lookin’ down the barrel of the 50 caliber and this guy walks out of his house with his hands up. This guy’s about the age of my father ya know, and he calls out in English ‘My family, we stay? We go?’ And we’re all goin’ nuts there bout ta shoot anything that moves, but we yell ‘Stay! Stay!’ and wave him back. He says thank you and goes back in his house.
“So by the time we’re on the road gittin’ outta there we got one guy dead and a couple more guys hurt from mortars. Then we see our Cobras buzz overhead toward the city, and those things are whippin’ around firin’ crazy and I’m thinkin’, ‘Thank god I’m not the bad guy right now’.

“So I’m still on the gun bouncin’ along in the truck and we see these lights roll toward us out of the desert. Now it’s standard protocol to shoot any vehicle, or any military age male on sight at night in Iraq. They know they got curfew ya know. So I’m sittin’ behind the gun and these lights start comin’ at us, an’ I got my finger on the trigger ready to,-ta-ta…to fuckin’ shoot this thing ya know! But they stop, and I yell to my sergeant, ‘Sarge, Shoot or don’t shoot’. He yells ‘don’t shoot!’ so we wait to see if they come closer. If these guys pull forward I’m gonna fuckin’ fire on em’. But they just sit there, and I’m fuckin’ squeezing the handle of the gun. Then they just back straight up and they’re gone into the desert.”

“Wow man, that’s a crazy situation to be in.” I said, knowing I can’t imagine what it’s like.

“Yeah ya know, I got to know a few of the Iraqis and they’re good people, they care about their families and their homes and just want a regular normal life, but when you’re in the shit you can’t think of them like people, they’re just bad guys or you’ll be the one that ends up dead.”

I had nothing else to say. It was a different world than the back deck of a bar in the middle of Massachusetts.

“HEY! Ya, go around the front door alright,” Hunter called out some dude trying to hop over the rail.
“Yeah I wanna come see the bus after we close. You guys goin’ through Georgia at all?”

Before we could answer he was off riding the memory of another wild adventure.

“I was stationed at a base down there for a while, and one weekend my buddy and I decided that we want to go out to the Okefenokee Swamp and take some mushrooms. So we drive out to the sticks with a canoe strapped to the roof of my station wagon. And people out there are great man. Ya go into a local diner an’ eat grits and chicken and people were offerin’ their lawns for us to camp on. But my buddy and I talked to some people and they told us about a good spot to put the canoe away from the main camp-grounds. So we find the spot, put in, an’ paddle out in this channel for a ways and we’re all walled in by vines and bushes, with Spanish moss hangin’ down from the trees, fuckin’ crazy ya know!”

“So we stop and eat the mushrooms and paddle on again. And we’re goin’ along and I hit this thing in the water with my paddle and it fuckin’ lurches and swims away. So I just start yellin’ and we both start paddlin’ like crazy and my buddy’s yells, ‘Hunter what was that?! Was it an alligator, was it a snapping turtle?!’ And it hits me–we’re out in the middle of a huge swamp in a little canoe, we’ve just eaten a handful of mushrooms. I almost freak out. But then I realize that all I need to do…is to take a piss, smoke a Red, throw in a chew and paddle on down the river and everything’s gonna be good! So I say to my buddy,

‘Hey, all we gotta do is take a piss, smoke a Red, throw in a chew and paddle on down the river and everything’s gonna be good.’“

And he says, ‘Ok Hunter, but I’m gonna puke first.’

And I go ‘No! No! That’s a terrible idea, why would you wanna do that?!’

Then he leans over the side and starts pukin’. And I’m thinkin’ to myself,

‘I may just need to ignore this man for the next four hours’.

But he pukes and he’s good and we keep paddlin’ through black water and we get out fine.”

We went back to the bus and hung out with both Hunter and Loren after the bar closed, playing drums and telling stories, then crawled into our sleeping bags to hibernate for a few hours.


Step-It-Up in Amherst MA

On a gloomy Wednesday morning two days before our first visit, I packed my trunk and cleaned the scraps of past adventures from my room—train ticket stubs, water purification tablets, city maps, translation cheat sheets, Vietnamese newspapers….

32 Pine Hill LaneThrough the evening I wrestled with my brother Will, gave my Mom a computer lesson, and carried in wood for the fire. Ethan arrived around 11PM.

It was 40 degrees and drizzling when we reached the bus in E’s driveway. I loaded my trunk, skateboard, canned goods, books and tent, then laid my sleeping bag down inside the metal hull of my new home.

***

We spent the following day crossing off tasks—online banking, fastening bookshelves to the walls, answering emails, filling up on grease, and packing the bus with essentials—food, water, duct tape, filters, drums, sleeping bags, two 5 gallon buckets of CargoBiodiesel, hoses, tools, hand cleaner, laptops, way too many books and multitude of other things we might need while living on and maintaining a vegetable oil powered school bus.

By midnight Burkie and Cat arrived and we set a course for the UMass. We followed the Mass Pike from the east coast to the middle of the state, reaching Amherst several hours before dawn.

***

I peered out of my sleeping bag in the morning to see UMass students file in and out of the high rise dorms wearing Red Sox baseball hats and hooded Patriots sweatshirts.

Daniela, a graduate student from Germany and MassPIRG representative, greeted us as we stretched outside the bus. She led us into her dorm where we showered, cooked breakfast and got to know our quiet and intense host.

DanielaDaniela told us about her studies in mammalian biology at UMass and expressed her frustration at the amount of waste produced in American society. She was baffled by the disposable plastic shopping bags at the organic grocer, styrofoam cups at the environmental club meeting and the precious little attention paid to the coal fired power plant in the middle of UMass campus.

“We cannot turn down the heat in our dorm rooms in the winter. Instead, we just open the window,” Dani said shaking her head.

After a BioTour breakfast special—eggs, rice, and beans, Daniela directed us to the middle of campus. We steered our bright blue bus into the scene of concrete landscapes and matching grey sky.Signs of Life

Ethan and Burkie armed themselves with flyers and hunted down pedestrians. Cat rendered a big colorful “Step It Up 07” in sidewalk chalk, while I fielded questions at the bus:

“Does that thing really run on vegetable oil?”.

“Yeah it does. Actually the diesel engine was originally designed to run on a variety of fuels. The inventor, Rudolf Diesel, saw it as a way to stimulate local agricultural economies, etc, etc, etc…” I rattled off the well practiced answers.

Yes, we live on a bus, no we do not have a showerWe toured the campus that day and met a full spectrum of responses. Some people didn’t look up from their cell phones or Ipods, while others were ready to jump on board and join the crew. Still more would stop, accept a flyer, maybe think about it for a moment, and then continue on their way.

***

By late afternoon we were all drained from engaging people for hours on end. We parked the bus next to Ethan’s old apartment and made dinner and relaxed with Ethan’s friend Brandon.

After dinner, Ethan’s old roommates joined us inside the bus for a meta-physical exploration. After too much talking, Ethan and I, felt that all the words weren’t getting us anywhere and decided to use our feet. We burst out of the door, flying away up a hill, across a baseball field, and over a wooden bridge into the woods. As we ran upstream along the moonlit river, the hush of the distant waterfall grew to a roar. We climbed up to the rocky cliff side and sat quietly by the precipice for a spell. Once our thoughts were sufficiently muffled by the falling water, we ran off again to investigate an ancient tree; its huge branches growing steadily out over centuries. We galloped onward down the road to a co-housing community, and admired the simple, and sadly uncommon, way that people could live and work together, sharing their space some of their resources. We then skipped onto a private golf course, climbed in and out of a wide pine tree, then lay down on the manicured fairway and watched a couple of shooting stars criss-cross the sky. We returned to the apartment philosophically satisfied.

***

I thought I told you to Step It UpThe next day was Step it Up Day. Daniela had prepared a tight schedule to make efficient use of us and the bus. E steered the bus up a steep road carved between grey oaks and granite boulders to upper campus. We jumped off armed with flyers.

Inside the dining hall we informed a few groggy students in pajama pants about the impending climate and fuel crises. Then opted for a new strategy and positioned the bus between another set of dorms and the dining hall, coming between hung overGood Morning UMass! students and their food and making them come to us. We broke out the drums, sending djembe rhythms echoing between the dorms. Eventually the students began to stir and investigate the big blue commotion in front of their dorm.

Daniela informed us that it was time for our next stop, minutes later, Ethan and Burkie were on the roof banging drums between the shops and restaurants of the Amherst common. We then headed to the Hitchcock Center for the Environment the beginning of the Step-It-Up Day events. We rolled into the small dirt parking lot stopping between an old VW bus converted for SVO, and brand new Volswagen golf converted to run on veg by the women at Seven Sisters Auto. Ethan and I gave a presentation then joined the parade of activists marching from the nature center two miles down the road to Hampshire College, carrying home made signs and And another thing… pushing bike strollers.

Pleased looking folks milled about between a horseshoe of tables and the stage. They chatted with organizers and perused the pamphlets on the tables while enjoying free lentil soup.

they sure doCat and Burkie rounded up the lead organizers for an interview inside the bus. There was Ted, the resident naturist who noticed that a species of tit-mouse migrated further North of its normal territory because of rising temperatures and was struck by the reality of global warming. Ted challenged several families to measure and reduce their consumption, and met more people who shared his concerns. He then and got involved with Step-It-Up. some neighborhood superheros

Lani, a Junior Sustainability Studies major, was the lead organizer for Hampshire College. Although Hampshire College supports sustainable projects and there are flocks of sheep grazing on campus pastures, Lani and her organization New Leaf pressure the administration to make the campus a model of efficient design and sustainable practices.

And Debbie, avid quilter and loving mother to children from Kenya and Jamaica. The idea for the event was born of conversations around her kitchen table. She had never before organized an event.

Warm people + warm food=happy BioTourDebbie invited the BioTour crew over for brunch next morning. (After a serendipitous night at the local Irish Pub, the Harp) We were all quite happy to be out of the cold bus for a while and eat with Debbie and her family before making our way back East.

Little kids ran through the kitchen and friends and neighbors walked through the open front door. Debbie’s family and their neighbors share a garden in the culdesac between their homes. Now instead of suburban isolation, there is a little slice of the Shire.

Maisha, Debbie’s twelve year old daughter from Kenya, and I jumped on the trampoline in the rain. Debbie, Maisha, and BioTour

“Why do you run your bus on grease?” she asked me after I explained how our bus works.

“Well, it’s free, it’s fun, its better for the climate, and we don’t have to waste as much petroluem.”

“Is that like gas? Are we going to run out or something?”

“Yeah, but not for a while, but pretty soon there’s just not going to be enough for everyone to keep living the way people live now.” I said.

“Oh,” Maisha said, “Then they’ll probably be wars and fighting for it, huh?”

“Well, yes.” I said.

Maisha thought about this for a moment, “Or…if someone didn’t have enough fuel or whatever someone else, like up the street could just share with them. And everyone would just help each other so they could have enough like in a family. Every street could be just like a family.”

“You’re right Maisha,” I said, “we could.”

***


Wading through Junkyards

troll-junk.jpgOn April 9, I celebrated my quarter century birthday wading through junkyards. Alan and I set off in the morning in search of fuel tanks. We walked into the office trailer of the first yard of the day and met a junkyard hand behind the desk. He sat on a stool, his grey t-shirt not quite covering his big belly that hung over his belt, his sparse beard left a shadow on his cheeks and neck. We asked about fuel tanks for the bus. He lifted his eyes from his computer just long enough to tell us that they probably don’t have what we’re looking for, and we’d have to wait until the boss got back for permission to walk through the yard. Alan and I looked at each other and exchanged perplexed looks before making our way toward the door.

As we turned away the man said, “You can try the yard up the road. They got some bigger vehicles that might have what you’re looking for.”

***

tall-stack-of-cars.jpgTwo sets of inquisitive eyes followed us up the driveway. I sent them a smile, called out a greeting, and told them why we had come. The slender man with a long gray beard hanging over his black t-shirt asked what the tanks were for. Alan told the story we had told countless times before about our vegetable oil-powered bus that could use some extra fuel capacity.

“No kiddin’,” said the bearded man. After a pause, he directed us toward some large fuel tanks in the back of the boneyard.

We walked down rows of rusting decrepit cars, some stacked into piles, like a hasty mass burial.

“This is not a junkyard, this is a graveyard,” Alan said.

rusted-old-car.jpg

We found the tanks right where the bearded man said they would be, but they were too rusted to use. We took the opportunity to explore.

***

We next headed toward the town center, finding another junkyard not far down the road. Just inside the gate two men in black t-shirts with blow torches and sledge hammers ripped apart old radiators to scrap the copper fittings. Once again, we told our story, asked about tanks, and wound up sitting and talking about biofuels and the politics of big oil for the better part of a half hour. The two men sipped on Bud Lights as they worked.

“Friday, drinkin’ day. Hey, an’ we recycle too,” one man joked, tossing an empty can on the growing pile.

After joking, rapping about politics and life for a bit with Charlie and Son’s, Alan and I walked into the labyrinth of scrapped cars and trucks. Strapped beneath a broken down tractor-trailer were two tanks that looked like they’d work. We clamored around under the chassis spraying degreaser on the rusted bolts to let it sit over-night.

Once home, I climbed underneath the bus to drain the oil pan. As black oil poured onto my hands, Black OilI heard my uncle mention something about a cake. My mind had been so caught in the tasks that needed to be done before our journey west, I had forgotten it was my birthday. The birthdays that once seemed so important were just distant memories. Now, I feel only a moment older with a new number for which people pay too much attention. But, tradition can sometimes be wonderful.

***

Mary’s eyes lit up, a big smile across her face. My sister looked around the room at each person unable to speak, but her unreserved emotions were written clearly across her face. On this occasion, she expressed amusement and the excitement at the flicker of candle flames and the crowd singing in unison. At some point over eighteen years, Mary figured out how to blow out the candles without spitting all over the cake. As she blew out the last candle, she immediately smiled and clapped as everyone joined in the applause.

Mom Dad MaryMy parents handed me a gift and a card. They never listen when I ask them not to buy me gifts. My father shrugged off the comment as if to say, ‘Don’t be ridiculous, of course we are giving you something for your birthday.’ I opened the card to find $150. I thanked them.

“You have a long trip ahead of you,” said my mother.

Aside from the fact that they provide me with so much already, there is another reason I ask my parents not to buy me gifts: I abhor the notion of buying gifts because society says we need to spend money to say I love you. I have my guitar, plenty of vintage thrift store clothes from “Salvation Armani,” my laptop and a stack of books that still need to be read. I don’t need anymore material possessions. They handed me a wrapped present. Once again, they must have thought I was being disingenuously polite, and once again they bought me a gift I won’t use.

“Bronson Arroyo? You got me a Bronson Arroyo CD?” I said in disbelief.

Ethan or Bronson?The sweaters I won’t wear, the grooming kit with the fancy toe-nail clippers and nose trimmers that I won’t use, and the gifts that might be useful someday but are totally unnecessary only bothered me a little. But, this was just silly. Bronson Arroyo is a pitcher who happens to resemble me. While I was getting my hair braided on the beach in East Africa, Bronson Arroyo was winning his first
World Series with the Red Sox, Bronson or Ethan?pitching with his blonde hair braided in cornrows. Upon my return home, I couldn’t braid my hair without getting called Bronson twenty times a day. It was frustrating and sort of a joke amongst my friends and family. But why my father bought me the CD of played out cover songs from some dude who happens to look like me boggles my mind.

After cake and ice cream, I went to the gym, the few moments of my day when I can stop thinking. Sometime afterward, my birthday came to an end while Alan worked on the bus into the early morning.

***

“You will be thirty before you know it,” my father cautions me, testing to see if I will settle down and get a “real job” soon. “You’re sister is 26 and a doctor. Your brother is 23 and will have his masters in six months.”

If someone asked me five years ago where I would be on my twenty-fifth birthday, I would never have guessed I would be foraging in junkyards for parts to my vegetable oil powered bus. I couldn’t have predicted the string of events and influences that brought me here, but right now, there’s nothing else I’d rather be doing.

“Law school will still be there in a few years. This is what I need to do now.” I told my father, who seemed reassured by my response.


Boston Bash

We spent the previous months working to make BioTour a reality. Through the winter, Alan, Cat and I spent our days working out of the Hall of Justice (Cat’s apartment in Cambridge). Time of day was nearly irrelevant. We slept when we were too tired to continue working. When we woke, someone would make coffee and breakfast. We would eat, watch Democracy Now, and stumble into a philosophical conversation for an hour. When someone needed a break, Cat and Alan at the Hall of Justice we’d walk to Harvard Square, sample some fine cheeses at a shop across the street, run up along the banks of the Charles the river, or play some capoeira, and then return to continue working from our computers. Networking and outreach, building our website and blog, booking schools, researching, refining our program…the tasks were many. We would find time at night to read for pleasure or party with friends and explore Boston.

As the snow melted and spring arrived, we spent more time working on the bus in my parents’ driveway, installing components to our vegetable oil burning engine and remaking the interior of the bus for more space and comfort.

As we got closer to launch, leisure time dwindled and vanished. We spent countless hours on our kickoff party alone—finding a venue, making posters, publicizing, laying out the space, finding musical act; food; drinks; speakers; cups; stamps; attendees, it didn’t end. Cat was feeling drained and overworked and we all were on edge with little time to ourselves. The day of the party was no different, sprinting from one task to the next, but once again pulled it off just in time.

Collective Canvas.  Painting at the Boston Kick Off Party.I parked the bus in front of the Community Church on Copley Square, putting an old parking ticket on the window. A few friends showed up to help, and we went to work setting up. We posted my uncles at the door, Alan’s friend Ryan behind the bar, and Cat’s friend Alex inside the bus manning the hookah. We displayed the work of local artists upstairs and mounted our own photos from the road. The open mic and drum circles were rocking all night,Lively open mic on the second floor.  Boston Kick Off Party while people painted together on the big cloth we’d mounted on the wall. Downstairs, Iyeoka, gave a powerful spoken word performance, followed by the Press, jamming with their 7 piece hip hop sound. The Foundation Movement came on to close the night. Their CD wouldn’t play on our computers, so did their set old school, flowing unplugged in front of an old boom-box we found.

Iyeoka moves the crowd.I was running around so much attending to the details of the party, I only caught moments of the incredible musical lineup Brian had put together. But our guests had fun and we made some money. We cleaned up the space, packed everything into the bus, dropped people off at TEP, and finally got the bus back my house just before sunrise.


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