Archive for August, 2006

Midwestern Castaways

As we cruised steadily down I-80, I eased on the breaks and slowed her down. Pulling Busosaurus over, I let her rumble and stall out. The crew in the back assumed the engine had faltered again.

“What’s up E? Clogged filter? Or the fuel pump?” asked Alan. Cat looked on ready to hop out of the bus for the pit crew routine.

“We’ll get her started again. There are some hitchhikers back there who need a ride.”

Good Karma.Jeremy walked to greet the stranded couple, Rich and Marie. Wanna drive? I will fight you for it.The rest of us spilled out of the bus—Cat wielding her camera, Alan calling Maya on his cell phone; Luke and John began another round of boxing. I tossed a few slaps their way.

I looked over and Rich had walked back to the van, letting out their friendly golden mut. Cat, John, Lucius and I had been discussing how the bus could use a dog, not a permanent one that would require us to clean up after, but a temporary dog that we could pet and play with, then send on its way. The three of us chuckled and smiled at one another as our first temporary dog trotted toward us, tongue wagging.

Hitchhiking in style. We welcomed Rich and Marie aboard. They settled into the love seat in the cockpit, Pushing on west. their dog scampering up and down the aisle. Cat and Alan coaxed Busosaurus back to life, Jimi Hendrix blasted through the speakers. Through the cracked rearview mirror I could see Cat dancing through the curtain, and Rich and Marie smiling at one another. With our temporary dog at my side, I drove west to Boulder.


Bumps in the Road

Sun SalutationsWe awoke at sunrise, and crawling out of the bus, found ourselves on the shore of Lake Michigan. Chris was already awake and practicing yoga, his palms pressed flat on the grass, one leg stretched up toward the sun. Jeremy sat meditating on a boulder by the shore. The rest of us ran passed them through tall grass down to a beautiful unpeopled beach.Yea Clean Grease Pirates!

We greeted the day swimming out into the lake, splashing in the shallows and taking an overdue bath. The sun rose higher and we didn’t see another soul on the beach or in the fields, save for a few hurrying joggers.

Welcome aboard NickAfter a long recess, we drove to South Station and picked up Nick. Ethan bumped a fire hydrant backing up, but the bus barely felt it. We left Chicago celebrating Nick’s arrival with beating drums.

***

As we rumbled across Illinois and into Iowa, the bus began to stutter and stall. Restarting it drained our old batteries again. We stopped at Iowa 80, “The World’s Largest Truck Stop!” After checking out the slot machines and medieval weaponry display (apparently there is a market for spiked maces and broad swords among truckers), Ethan and I navigated through the labyrinth of tractor-trailers to the auto shop and bought a new battery.

We had the bus running again, but felt something more was ailing her. On the advice from the truck stop’s mechanics, we drove back east a few exits to Hawkeye International Trucks in Davenport, Iowa.

The mechanics at Hawkeye International thought our fuel pump was cracked. They couldn’t fix it, and a new one cost about three thousand dollars. But there was a fuel pump Peaceful Plainsspecialist in Grand Island, Nebraska. We decided to press on the 450 miles west to Grand Island.

***

The bus began to stall every time the RPMs fell and would no longer start without assistance. When we stalled out at stoplights, and in the middle of intersections, Cat and I would jump out, pull open the hood, open the air intake and spray WD40 and ether down the bus’s throat while Ethan turned the ignition and pumped the gas pedal until she roared back to life.

As we rumbled across Iowa, Cat and I searched our minds for an appropriate name for our vessel, something a little more personal than “the bus.”

“It’s pretty clear to me that the bus has the reembodied spirit of a brontosaurus, and it’s an herbivore you know,” I said.

“Yeah, it feels like a sleepy old maternal figure, like, Nana, the St. Bernard from Peter Pan,” Cat mused.

”I like that: She groans, and tires but ultimately takes care of us,” I said. Spirit of a Dino

“But maybe something a little more…’Nanasaurus’?

“What about Busosaurus?”

Her eyes lit up, “Busosaurus!”

The name stuck; Busosaurus roared across the plains.

Stopping for grease outside Des Moines, we found a Chinese restaurant stuck in mini mall with. In the parking lot we met a singing telegram dressed in sparking silver dress and tiara. She sang a vaudeville rendition of “Happy Birthday” to us in the parking lot before leavining to deliver the message to the rightful recipient.

We broke down in Omaha, coming to rest in an empty church parking lot. Before long we’d attracted some interested folks: a veteran burner who told us about his old bus and past journeys to Burning Man; and a local young hip hop artist who invited us to an upcoming show, “Beats for Peace.” A guy named Toma offered to give me a ride to pick up some fuel filters in his van. He sipped on a can of “Sparks” energy drink and told me about his life as we rode across Omaha. He played freestyle Frisbee, usually by himself, throwing into the wind. He spoke of his love for his daughter, but how he wasn’t going to marry the mother just to create an unhappy household like his and his friends’ parents. He described how Omaha was racially and economically segregated,,

“Yeah, the South side is all Mexican. You gotta know Spanish if you want some tacos or somethin’. The north is black, east is lower class white, and west is bourgeoisie.”

And after just a glimpse into Omaha we were gone, on the road again.

***

That night, after taking a wrong turn and nearly getting stranded down a lonely road carved between massive cornfields, we made it to Grand Island. The bus sputtered and gave out; we rolled to a stop in the junkyard behind the garage. We weren’t going anywhere by bus until the shop opened, so Nick, Ethan, and I freed our mounts from the roof to explore Grand Island by bike.

Grand Island is an island amid a sea of corn, an agricultural trading post spread out among long fields, straight roads, and empty parking lots. Nick, Ethan and I found a warm pool of water, empty of swimmers, but it was inside a Hampton Inn, and the woman working at the hotel preferred that the pool remain empty. Escaping into the night, we peddled down a dirt path walled by tall stalks of corn. Back at the bus, we found the rest of our squadron lying out on the roof.A Grand Night in Nebraska

Nick mixed up some kalimodxo (a Basque word, pronounced ‘calimucho’), a concoction of Coca Cola and wine, he discovered whilst in Northern Germany. We sat across the roof, quaffing kalimudxo, looking out over the scattered lights of Grand Island, musing and laughing over the chain of events that had brought us there: Three years ago Ethan’s life revolved around basketball. Since stepping off the court, he has read a lot of Noam Chomsky, been in and out of love, traveled around the world, and now finds himself in a junkyard in the middle of Nebraska atop his vegetable oil mobile with a wonderfully motley crew.

***

The next morning, while mechanics inspected the bus, Chris and I peddled off to find food supplies and procure a connecting nozzle to link our travel stove to the propane tank. We rode around a town of one story ranch houses and grain elevators. Unable to find local Junkyard Dinerproduce, we returned from “Super Super Savers” with eggs, rice, beans, and avocados, plus the missing link to the stove. We set up our kitchen on an weather-beaten wooden pallet and cooked breakfast for the eight of us.

The mechanics reported that the fuel injector pump was cracked and lacked the pressure to send enough fuel to the pistons— that’s why we couldn’t idle and couldn’t start her up without ether.

“How quickly can you fix it?” Ethan asked.

“Well, I’d say ‘bout a week.”

We could not wait a week. Our team sprung into action, on phones, palm pilots, and the shop’s computer looking for new fuel injection pump. We found a part that could arrive in two days. As much fun as we had had the previous night, we did not want to spend two more days in Grand Island. We could have the part shipped to Colorado and wait for it in Boulder, but we’d have to risk leaving a place that could fix it for a fair price, to drive 600 miles to Boulder in the ailing bus and see if we could find a mechanic there to install the pump.

Until then, Ethan had paid for the bus entirely on his own, and was hesitant to take the additional risk. All of us agreed to split the labor cost of whatever mechanic we found, push on to Colorado and have the fuel pump meet us there. I decided then that I would to commit as a bus partner with Ethan, and buy the $1200 fuel injector pump. We set off for Boulder.


Maiden Voyage

Maine, Maya, CampfireMaya and I spent our last night together by a campfire in Maine. The next morning we drove back to Cambridge and said goodbye in an eddy of tears and kisses, laughter and runny noses, loving each other and parting ways once again.

The next day, the bus came lumbering down my driveway, Ethan at the wheel and Chris standing shotgun in the stairwell. They stopped just short of bumping into my basketball hoop. We embraced each other, gritting our teeth to contain our excitement. I dragged my trunk onboard, lashed my bike to the roof, and after convincing my mother to donate a beanbag chair from our basement (“Thanks, Mom. No grease stains, I promise. Love you.”), I waved goodbye to my family, slid into the cracked pleather saddle and eased the Bus onto the road.

Lillian Smith once wrote, “no journey carries one far unless, as it extends into the world around us, it goes an equal distance into the world within.” Two years earlier, Ethan, Chris, and I circumnavigated the globe with Semester as Sea. That journey, and those since, changed us all.

I was beginning another journey and I felt it changing me already. We drove past New Bedford and Fall River to the Providence Zen center to pick up Cat. The bus ran smoothly on vegetable oil the entire way. We puttered past the Korean style wooden temples and flowering rhododendrons, finally resting beneath a willow tree. I stepped out onto the grass. Ethan climbed out behind me, stopping to fasten the pad lock across the door.Providence Zen Center

“You’re locking the door, E.”

“Yeah?”

“It’s a Zen Center, E.”

“Right,” he said, pulling the door back open.

I met Cat the day she and her friend Jeremy came to Ethan’s house to help renovate the bus. She painted a sunburst on our ceiling and decided—on the spot—to join us on our voyage to Burning Man. Cat greeted us from the Temple steps with her unsinkable smile. She led us through the meditation room, introducing us to a large bronze Buddha, then into the communal Monks on a Bus!kitchen where we helped ourselves to curry and vegetables. We took several of the monks on a tour of the bus. “One of the original Merry Pranksters is with us meditating,” one monk told us, pointing to a small temple perched on the hillside. The original magic bus: duly noted. The monks wished us well, and we pointed northward to Boston.

***

“This bus runs on Vegetable Oil!” proclaims the side of the bus. Needless to say, we turn heads on the highway, often eliciting thumbs ups and honks of encouragement. But despite the support from our fellow motorists, the bus began to tire outside the city.

“We’re losing power, Captain E!” I yelled back to Ethan, who was lounging on the futon, trying to catch up on sleep.

“Probably a clogged filter. Switch to diesel. We’ll change it when we stop.”

“Right O!”

We wriggled through narrow city streets to the Cambridge Zen Center to meet Jeremy. With him were Luke and John, who had also decided (apparently the night before) to join us on our adventure West.

I clamored onto the roof of the bus, lashing another couple of bikes to the growing pile. A woman with long white hair and a simple purple dress called out from across the street:Battening Down the Hatches!

“Your bus runs on vegetable oil!? That’s great! Have you seen Al Gore’s movie?”

“No, not yet, but thank you.”

“Well, you should. Oooh, I’m so glad someone’s doing something about it! You guys give me hope!”

We decided to fuel up before leaving the city. Being the most ironic option, we chose the Middle East Café. We dropped Ethan and Cat at the front door (“No, we do not want to eat falafel. We want the grease from your dumpster to fuel our bus.”), and I pulled the bus into the back alley to find the grease. Though Ethan and I were novice grease pirates by this point, our fellow journeymen, and woman, were still virgins. I passed out the rubber gloves: “You ready to get greasy?” The first step is to test the grease quality: dip strips of cardboard into waste oil barrels and inspect the dripping grease—honey colored oil is good, gravy is bad. Though we opted for the cleaner grease of the Chinese restaurant next door, the owner of the Middle East was still eager to help:Free Fuel, low emissions–Double Happiness!

“I’ve got five gallon buckets you can have. Very useful.”

When the bus had drunk her fill, we rolled up our hoses and scrubbed our hands. As I steered us onto the Mass Pike, we toasted a successful first grease team operation with bottles of surplus pomegranate juice. I followed an orange sunset across Massachusetts—my first day behind the wheel of a 35ft school bus and I drove tentatively, checking and re-checking mirrors to make sure I wasn’t crushing anyone. But I didn’t crush anyone; I kept on across Massachusetts, letting my driving partner Jeremy take on New York.

***

I Pledge allegiance to the flag of the United States and to the corporations which it has come to represent…The bus grew thirsty again outside Syracuse. We tried McDonalds, but the grease looked like frozen gravy and I think we frightened the night manager. We tried Applebee’s grease, and deemed the orange swill good enough (though we later learned it probably wasn’t). Cat dipped the suction hose into the dumpster while we talked to the employees outside on break. “Damn, I wanna ride the Bus!” exclaimed one of the Applebee’s bus-boys who had just moved North from Georgia. A maternal senior waitress wished us well and gave us twenty dollars, which we gratefully accepted.

With “Vegetable Oil Powered Bus” written across our hull, I felt almost guilty stopping at a gas station to fill up our petro-diesel tank. I sought out a Citgo to soften the karmic blow, supporting literacy programs in Venezuala over“The Revolution Will Not Be Televised” contributing to Exxon’s and the oil cartel’s record breaking profits. We pressed on across New York, joining the herds of tractor-trailer trucks that migrate across the country by night. Jeremy and I finished our six-hour shift, and Luke and John took over.

In the morning, we pulled over in a town called Westfield, aptly named, but still in New York. A bronze statue of Abraham Lincoln holding the hand of a young girl in a bonnet welcomed us to Main Street. It felt like the small American towns that exist more commonly in Norman Rockwell paintings than real life. There was a local hardware store, a spinning barber’s pole, and a crowded diner. The absence of a Wal-mart made Westfield feel anachronistic…but still, thankfully, there was a Chinese restaurant.

Back on the highway, hurtling over the asphalt once again, Cat took the wheel with Ethan co-piloting. Luke sat on the futon beside John and Chris, anxiously trying to access the internet.

“I don’t think you would have gotten on the bus if it was a mistake,” said John.

“What’s going on?” I asked.

If I go there will be trouble, if I stay it will be double…

“I’m thinking that I’ve left too many loose ends and people I’m going to let down. I have obligations. I’m looking for bus tickets back to Boston from Ohio,” answered Luke.

“You’ve come this far for a reason,” Chris advised, but then left Luke to make his own decision.

***

We chugged through the corn-stuffed Northwest corner of Pennsylvania and into Ohio, stopping next in Cleveland’s financial district in front of a Fed-Ex/Kinkos. My fellow grease pirates ran off to send emails and buy groceries. I stayed next to the bus and fielded questions from a crowd of breaking janitors, construction workers, and eager kindergarten students with their peppy teacher. An African-American man wearing white overalls and a hard-hat admired our vessel:

“Vegetable oil? Y’all scientists?”

“No, we’re not scientists; anyone can do this.” “Well, I wish y’all luck, man.” Designer suits faced straight ahead and hurried by.

Our hazard lights had drained our ancient batteries; we needed a jump start. A “Manny’s Towing” truck rolled by and stopped at a traffic light. I walked up to the Cleveland Rocks! Now can someone give us a jump? open window:

“Manny, could you give us a jump? Our battery’s dead.”

“All right, man. Where you at?”

***

Like herds of Buffalo, that contribute to the economy, tracker trailers roam the plains We were soon back on the road, plunging into the sea of corn across Ohio and Indiana. With so many enthusiastic drivers there was plenty of time to relax inside our traveling lounge. Chris sat cross-legged on the love seat and explained to me the Mayan calendar— the second most accurate time keeping device that humans have ever created, behind the atomic clock (FYI: this world is set to end on the vernal equinox of 2012, so make sure to use up all your vacation time). John and Jeremy pounded African drums along with the beats of Michael Franti and Spearhead, Manu Chao, or The Matrix soundtrack. We read and wrote and talked. We watched the world pass outside the windows: the land, the sky, and the little worlds inside each passing automobile.

Sunset RecessSunset found us at a truck stop in the middle of Indiana. Triple-trailered Fed-Ex trucks streamed across the pink horizon. We tumbled out of the bus, stretched our legs, and tossed an Aerobie disk around the empty parking lot. It felt good to run around, and we resolved to institute daily recesses. Luke and John (who were childhood friends) danced around one another shadow boxing. They were laughing; Luke had decided to stay with us.

***

It was almost three in the morning when we got off the highway in Chicago. Nick, another shipmate from SAS, would arrive in the morning via Greyhound from Madison, Wisconson. We rolled through the South Side and into a maze of freight yards and truck routes. Luke successfully navigated us to a parking lot on Northwestern’s campus (his alma mater), where we slept soundly the remainder of the night.


Conception

Burning Bus.It was late August, and I was finally out of debt. I had graduated from college and was itchin’ to travel, so I did what any rational person in my position would do: I bought an old school bus that runs on vegetable oil, the American way…on credit.

I had planned to backpack around the world, but something told me to first explore my own country. Aside from a high school trip to Disney World and an occasional basketball tournament, New England was my view of America. I had visited a sanitized commercial fantasy world and hardwood floors and hoops in different cities; twenty-four years old and the word ‘America’ remained nebulous and narrow for me. I wanted to see the real America, to break through the myths and commercial façades of Chevy trucks and stars and stripes to see what was really there. I wanted to see how people live, how they feel, what they think, and what guides their lives. I wanted to see the land, to experience the natural beauty with all my senses.

***

The original idea had been to find a cheap retired school bus and convert the fuel system to run on restaurant fryer grease myself (though I had little idea of how to do this). I figured if I ran into trouble my uncles would gladly lend their hands, and I could just step back, watch, learn and bear the profanity that accompanies any handiwork that doesn’t practically build itself. However, in the midst of my search I received an email from Arrow, a man I had met only weeks earlier who just happened to own a vegetable oil-powered bus. His message: “My bus is for sale for $4,000 if you’re interested…”

The madness of TEP…long live 33.Though an already converted bus had fallen at my feet, I still couldn’t decide wheter to buy it or build my own. But there was another factor to consider: Burning Man. Burning Man is billed as “an annual experiment in temporary community dedicated to radical self-expression and radical self-reliance” that tests the mettle of thousands in the Nevada desert; but having never been, I was unsure of what that meant. Dustin, a good friend and shipmate from Semester at Sea and a veteran “Burner” had been recruiting me to attend for some time, and late one summer night at TEP—the infamous MIT engineering funhouse fraternity—Dustin, Alan and I made a pact to meet on the salt flats of Northern Nevada at Burning Man. All I needed now was some way to get to Nevada, and I needed it in less than three weeks.

***

Late one night in early August, Alan and I took the Chinatown express from Boston to New York to meet Arrow and the bus. My friend Eytan offered his place in Midtown Manhattan to crash for the night. After rousing Eytan in the early am, Alan and I climbed the stairs past the 35th floor onto the roof where we camped out above the city the sleep in the warm night air.

Diplomacy at the UN.We had time the next morning before our meeting with Arrow and the bus, so we walked a few blocks from Eytan’s apartment to the United Nations building. Sitting in the once public viewing area overlooking the Security Council, we couldn’t help asking our tour guide uncomfortable questions about veto power, who uses it, the legality of the Iraq War, and what it all says about this club of nations.

We took the metro to Williamsburg, the hipster part of Brooklyn. We found Arrow shirtless and in cut-off jeans doing business from his Blackberry. We greeted and followed him to the outskirts of the neighborhood listening to the story of last night’s farewell party that he and his crew had had with the bus.

“You had a hundred people partying around the bus on the Brooklyn Bridge? Did you get a permit?” Alan asked Arrow.

“We don’t feel that our culture needs permission.”

“What about cops?”

“It was this very cool Tai Chi kind of thing, moving back and forth with each other. I mean, I love cops. I don’t like it when they beat up protesters, but I love everybody.”

First meeting the bus in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. The bus was parked behind the chain link fence of an old brick factory. It was an ‘89 International Bluebird with a faded green and silver paintjob, broken mirrors, rust, grease, and cracked windows. Inside, the walls and ceiling around the driver’s seat were covered in stickers and posters. The floor was caked with dust and grease. The backseat from an old car had been bolted to the floor across from an old broken oven. Makeshift wooden trunks that doubled as beds stood along the walls, filled with useless treasures and useful junk: disco balls, sleeping bags, capes, Christmas lights, jugs of grease, hoses and tools. It was perfect.

We installed a new electric pump and surveyed the bus inside, outside and underneath. The sun was setting so we packed up our stuff and walked to a local pub. The three of us drank a few Brooklyn lagers and left for a party at 3rd Ward, a large abandoned factory turned artist collective and creative workspace.

The next day, Alan was beckoned to Boston, but I stayed in New York for another day to tie up loose ends. First off: a bus driving lesson. Obviously, the best way to learn how to operate a 35-foot school bus is to drive across Manhattan to the auto-shop to pick up some fuel filters. Thankfully, it isn’t too difficult driving a bus—take wide turns, check both the spot and rearview mirrors, no problem. We changed the filter and Arrow repeated the instructions for properly operating the bus, including all the idiosyncratic quirks.

Driving Home.There was nothing left to do but take her home. I sat in the driver’s seat. Arrow stood at the bottom of the stairwell. We paused for a brief moment in silence exchanging looks of apprehension. Arrow was giving up a vessel of fond memories: the cross-country DJ tour in 2003, road trips with his daughter and friends, the NYC parties and parades. I was throwing thousands of dollars into a fallible machine, which in an instant could leave me with nothing but a hefty credit card bill. The nervous pause was broken with smiles and we shook hands. I lifted the E-break and I went on my way. I drove back across New York in rush hour traffic, spending the next seven hours acquainting myself with the bus and wondering what adventures lay down the road.

***

We had three weeks to fix up the bus before Burning Man, more than enough time to gut it, clean it, install furniture and adorn it with artwork for a cross-country road trip.

Maya and Cat beautify.It only took a few emails and a couple of days before we assembled a eight pirates to crew the bus to Burning Man and lend their labor to transform the interior of the bus before our adventure west. We managed to scavenge some carpet, paint, and an assortment of building material. Alan and I gutted and washed the inside of the bus. Cat and Alan took the artistic initiative, designing a sunburst on the ceiling that spreads into the night sky toward the rear of the bus. Maya, Alan’s better half, added the perfect touch: streaks of light purple swirling across the black ceiling, reminiscent of Van Gogh’s “Starry Night.” We laid green carpet across the floor and built a platform against the back wall that would support our king size bed and provide storage space underneath. Nest building.We hung a tapestry to separate the cockpit from the living area in the back. Donations of futons, bean bags and couches left us with ample furniture for a comfortable journey. The best addition to the bus, howeever, was sound. My buddy Greene donated and installed a stereo and subwoofer that dissolved the loud clacking of the engine in music.

***

The night before Burning Man, I was still making last minute additions and repairs to the bus and began packing at 3 am. Chris Crump, another Semester at Sea shipmate, had made a long trip from California, to Eastern Canada, and then to my parents’ home in time to head west to Burning Man. Chris dozed off in the backseat of the bus while I loaded food, gear, and clothes. By the time I had finished, it was past 4 am. After getting lost in a culdesac maze searching for Alan’s parents’ house, we eventually pulled the bus into a gas station and slept. A few hours later, I was awakened by the ringing of my cell phone; we connected, and the adventure began.


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